Shibaozhai represents the first gem of Chinese architecture
to be encountered on the downstream journey. From afar, the
protruding 220-metre (720-foot) hill on the north bank can appear
to resemble a jade seal, and is so named. The creation of the
hill is attributed to the goddess Nuwo, who caused a rock slide
while she was redecorating the sky after a fierce battle between
two warring dukes.
A red pavilion hugs one side of this rock. lts tall yellow entrance
gate is decorated with lions and dragons and etched with an
inscription inviting the visitor to climb the ladder and ascend
into a 'Little Fairyland'. The temple at the top was built during
the reign of Emperor Qianlong (1736--96) and access to it was
by an iron chain attached to the cliff. A nine-storeyed wooden
pavilion was added in 1819 so that monks and visitors to the
temple would not have to suffer the discomforts of the chain
ascent. In 1956 three more storeys were added. Each floor is
dedicated to famous generals of the Three Kingdoms period (AD
220--65), local scholars and renowned Chinese poets. The rising
waters of the river will eventually surround the pagoda, which
will be preserved with a tiny dam of its own, but left on an
island.
In front of Ganyu Palace at the top of Jade Seal Hill is the
Duck Hole. It is said that as spring turns to summer, if you
take a live duck and drop it through the hole, it will quickly
reappear swimming in the Yangtze. In the past the monks apparently
drew their drinking water from this hole by using a pipe made
of bamboo.
The spirit wall in the temple's main hall is constructed of
excavated Han-dynasty (206 BC--AD 220) bricks. The hall behind
is dedicated on the right to Generals Zhang Fei and Yan Yan
(see above and page 42) of the Three Kingdoms, and on the left
to General Qin Liangyu (1576--l648) who fought bravely against
the Manchu forces. A mural shows the goddess Nvwa repairing
the sky. In the rear hall are the remains of the Rice Flowing
Hole. Legend has it that long ago just enough husked rice would
flow up from the small hole each day for the needs of the monks
and their guests. One day a greedy monk, thinking he could become
rich, chiselled a bigger hole, and the rice flow ceased forever.
Many of the tourist cruise ships dock at Shibaozhai for a few
hours' visit. For those on scheduled passenger boats, you should
disembark at Xituozhen on the south bank and transfer to local
ferries to cross the river.
The new village of Shibaozhai is located above the present town
which will be submerged by the end of 2002.
